Some quick and dirty notes from a patina class I took at Molten Metal Works in Atwater Village, LA, CA.
places to source
- M&K metal supply
- Sculpt Noveau
- Bronzeway for plating
- IMS (industrial metal supply)
general notes
- Sand and clean (hand oil and fingerprints are a problem)
- Muriatic acid for removing galvanized from zinc (baking soda to neutralize acid
- Clean with 98+ alcohol cleaner
- Propane camping torch works for hot patina
- If a little water on the hot metal just beads or instantly flashes, it’s too hot
- Always want to do the hot patina first
- Hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar and salt for instant rust (2 ounces white vinegar) half teaspoon salt
- Good patinas
- Japanese Brown
- Gunmetal
- Black magic
- Tiffany green
- Rainbow
- Oil patinas are a bit thicker
- Good wax
- All metal wax coating
- Naval jelly rust remover, doesn’t reset the metal, goes pretty white.
clean lines
- Tape it, then run a small line with gel acrylic or clear fingernail polish
hot and cold patina
- Cold patina needs good tooth (palm sander or brushing with steel wool pads)
- Hot patina needs 200°+ heat
- Black magic is just a tried and true standby
- Darker waxes can darken the grooves and textures in the metal
iron a/b/c/d coating paint
Hot rolled vs cold rolled (steel)
- Hot rolled will have a blueish blackish won’t patina well, you have to grind that off
- Cold rolled is ideal for patina
3D prints to patina
Primer ➡️ Texture paint ➡️ iron coating paint ➡️ patina
homemade patinas
- Hard boiled egg open while hot will sulfurize (will turn low points with sterling dark, steel may go brown)
- Ammonia vapor and salt water misted for a light blue, air dry (may work on galvanized)
- Vinegar for green finish, with sawdust for texture
- Salt and vinegar chips with water
- Miracle-gro instead of ammonia (mixed with salt water for a turquoise look)
- India ink with hot application